In this video we show you start to finish how to properly install your Bella Turf artificial grass.
This step-by-step tutorial is brought to you by Bella turf, today's leader in artificial landscape, grasses and golf greens, measure your yard and calculate total square footage of turf needed for your project.
Select the grass that you're going to install and come up with a turf plan for your yard, keep in mind that turf rolls come in 15-foot widths and ideally you'd like to keep all the grain going the same direction throughout your entire project.
To remove your existing grass of topsoil, we recommend using a sod cutter.
This will save you time and energy when it's time to clear the base out, you want to cover all grass areas of your yard, with sod cutter drive around from the outside to the inside in a spiral light pattern once you've got that go the other direction and create crisscross lines on your grass.
This will make for easy removal of the topsoil with the top layer cut you're going to want to remove four to six inches of your existing yard.
Try to dig your yard out as evenly as possible throughout the entire tear out process.
This will speed up breaking it out when you're through before even starting your project plan ahead.
So you know what you're going to deal with the existing yard.
Once you tear it out to speed up the tear out process, we use a bobcat empty 50 to walk-behind tractor.
Your tear out will be done in a fraction of the time and if you were to dig it all out by hand once your tear-out is done, you want to rake your existing base as evenly as possible with the yard, nice and level and the pile of road gates arriving it's time to bring the base into the guide.
Dumping wheelbarrow after wheelbarrow is the most consistent way to get your base somewhat level before raking.
It out begin dumping your base at the furthest away point in your yard, work backwards, placing pile after pile and rake it even as you go once you've got the base as level as possible.
You want to water it thoroughly to allow it to settle off compacting with a plate.
Compactor you want to drive, around in a similar pattern a few different sod, cutter overlapping your lines ensuring the base is compacted, throughout use, a plate tamper to get to those areas of the contact that can't reach to compact around trees in other areas simply use a 2x4 in a hammer.
What's your bass is compacted look over the entire area for imperfections that you might need to come back and either fill or flatten bring in additional bass to fill those spots where needed.
Look for high areas to take down with the rake as well spread the whole base, even when you're happy with the bass give it a final comp backing refer back to your turf plant, drawing and measure and mark your face exactly where your pieces of turf are going to let measure and mark from both directions.
So when you bring in your turf, you can set it down in the spot, that's going to be laying it.
When you're ready to cut the turf, you want to roll it out on a level surface, starting from the end measure down the edge of the turn and put a cut mark on the required measurement for your piece be sure to do this on both sides to guarantee a straight cut roll, the turf back up.
So your cut lines are on top use, a chalk line and put a straight line between your two cuts with a sharp knife and a steady hand, follow your line and cut the turf as straight as possible.
Next we're going to flip the edges of the turf over to cut the excess material off start between the first and second tough and follow that line.
All the way down.
Keeping tension on your loose cut off will help with the cuts once both edges are cut roll your piece up and bring it into the yard.
You want to set it down, it's close to position as possible.
So when you roll it out, you don't damage the base once you roll the piece out, if you need to make minor adjustments, get around the edges and give it a light shake to get some air underneath it.
This allows it to move easily when cutting the turf out around objects, whether flat or curved.
You want to fold the turf back spot the distance you'd like it to go and give it some release cuts.
You want your relief cuts close enough together, so that the turf is able to lay flat on the ground while the flaps go up.
The object which you're cutting around once you've got your relief cuts done and your turf is laying nicely on the ground, come back and cut the flaps off when cutting two sidewalks patios or other objects level with the turf you want to pull back on the cutoff fees to allow you to see what you're cutting to when cutting around trees or any other objects that are in the way of your turf plan.
You need to give yourself big relief cuts to allow the turf to bend around the object.
Take the turf back little by little and make sure you don't cut deeper than necessary the goal when cutting around trees or any other object.
That's in your turf plan is for your first straight relief cut to meet back up with itself behind the tree when seaming two pieces of turf together, you want to set the additional piece as close as you can, to your existing piece of turf roll it out, and but your edges together as flush as possible with the piece in place, grab the turf on both sides of the seam and bend it apart, lay down small sections at a time paying close attention to the backing and whether or not it overlaps.
If you need to cut some turf away cut the piece that you just laid down, leaving the edge of the existing piece alone check your seam every couple of inches and work.
Your way down the entire scene.
If you end up with any gaps between your pieces, keep them under an eighth of an inch.
This will prevent your seam from being visible once you're finished.
Once your seams line up nice cut a piece of seam tape to match the length of your scenes fold both pieces of turf over and play seam tape, centered on your seat, spike both ends on the seam tape.
So it does not slide around when you're spreading the glue, pour the glue evenly and spread it to the full width of the scene.
Tape to get the strongest possible bonds keep the amount of glue consistent throughout the entire scene.
When laying down the turf to create your scene, you need help holding both sides up at the same time.
Well, you start at the opposite end of the scene.
You want to lay down both pieces at the same time, while keeping the fibers off and completely away from the group.
It's very important that you don't let the turf stick down ahead of where you're working.
It's highly recommended that you have assistance with this step in the installation, make sure to keep the fibers up and away from you go to the very end of your seat once the turf is all laid down, come back and read the scene with a lot of pressure on both sides to make sure that the glue is completely stuffed down to both surfaces.
You want to spike the turf on both sides of the scene.
Every few inches use the nail to part the fibers and expose the backing.
Make sure that when you pound the nail in you do not trap any fibers underneath the head of it keep the nails as close to the center as possible and repeat this throughout the entire scene.
If you plan to do your install with just a stiff, bristle push broom, you need to first brush the fibers up to allow the sand to drop in using a large flathead shovel.
You want to lay the sand down in a back dragging motion.
You want it to fall evenly and be approximately two and a half pounds of sand per square foot of turf.
The total amount of sand infill use is split between two separate applications.
The first initial fill and grooming will get the fiber standing upright.
Then you want to come back with the second layer of sand to complete your infill, come back with your push, broom and brush the sand around until it drops completely into the statue of your turf once the sand is brushed in, the fiber should stand upright, and it should appear to look like natural grass if you have access to a power broom for your installation, there's no need to brush the fibers up before you spread your stamp power.
Broom are not.
You still want to keep a consistent two and a half pounds of sand per square foot of turf with the power boom start at the edge of your yards, where the fibers are facing away from the fence.
Push the power broom firmly into the turf, pull the throttle and walk backwards steadily in a straight line.
While the power broom stands, the fibers up work slowly and make sure you overlap all the lines.
The power grid stands the fibers up and allows the sand to drop evenly into the thatch of the turf once your entire yard has been in filled with sand, come back and look for high and low spots throughout the entire surface, fill the low spots and simply push the high spots out with caliber once you've topped up your infill give the yard a final power grooming use a leaf blower to remove any sand left behind the end result is a flawless looking yard that remains beautiful throughout all seasons of the year.