What is the best pre emergent herbicide for lawns? That questions depends on a few factors, but I will provide you some tips and advice on the pre emergents I am using in my lawn care business. Prodiamine is the pre emergent I use during the early part of the year. It is less expensive than others, and it also does a great job preventing crabgrass. I am using Specticle Flo in the fall on my warm season lawns. Prodiamine can be used on both cool season and warm season grasses. I am using Specticle for warm seasons grasses such as bermuda, zoysia, centipede, and st augustine. I am also planning to use another dose of specticle flo this year on bermuda and zoysia lawns in May to help with doveweed, kylinga, chamberbitter, and other warm season weeds. Specticle does a superior job in my opinion, with contolling poa annua as a fall application. Dimension is a great option if crabgrass has already germinated in the spring, but is still early in the life cycle.
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So, what's the best pre-emergent for your lawn? Well, it's going to depend on some circumstances, but I'm going to talk to you about several pre-emergents and talk to you about which one may be right for your lawn depending on the situation.
Let's get started right now: hey guys, I'm jason creel, and this is the lawn care life thanks for watching the video and what I tell people, I'm out spraying pre-emergent um often times early in the year, like you know, I'm in alabama, so oftentimes, I'm spraying january and february, and I come back I'm spraying again in september october.
Those times may be different for you if you live in a different area, but when I'm spraying in january february on bermuda lawns, I tell people I said you know in many ways this is the most important application of the year, because if you have a lawn, that's just loaded with crab grass and you skip this pre-emergent application, then you can fertilize and fertilize and do all kind of post-emergent application things like that.
But getting that pre-emergent down to prevent most of that cravings, I say prevent it.
Doesn't my understanding? Doesn't actually prevent the weed from the wheat, it kills the weed you know right after shortly after germinate, so it's um it.
You never see it in the lawn.
Basically, so you sometimes use that language, but anyway, that is going to be the most important application, because if you can keep that cram grass out now, even if you got a little bit of bermuda grass, you can start fertilizing and get it to recover.
So let me show you some of the pre-emergents talk to you about the timing of them, what weeds we're trying to go after with these and why I use one instead of the other okay.
So, let's start early in the year, like I said I'm in alabama to adjust this according to where you live, but I I put this product out right here and and the crabgrass typically germinates my understanding when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees and that can vary from year to year.
So in our area, that's sometimes late february, early march uh and the soil temperatures again, my understanding is they're going to have to stay at 55 for for a little bit.
So you may have several warm days in a row to get those soil temperatures up and that crabgrass germinates.
Now, if you don't have this out and watered in before that happens, then it's it's not going to do you a whole lot of good on crabgrass- and I mentioned crab grass here, because that is- is one of the weeds they'll just completely take over a lawn, but it also is going to help with with other annual weeds.
You notice, I said, annual weeds, so if you have weeds in your yard, like dallas grass and other perennial weeds, it's not going to do anything to help you with this.
So this is going to you know weeds that are they're annuals.
They die out in the cold weather, they've drop seeds, which will sprout a new plant from that seed that was left over from last year's plant.
That's at least the way I understand it.
This is resolute, so it's a granular about, but I mix it in a tank and I spray it out on this big spray tank right here um.
You can also get this in liquid form, which same thing would mix it in some sort of spray tank.
You can also get it in a granular form, so you might start seeing stuff at the big box stores or wherever you buy chemicals that says a 50-pound bag and they'll, say 0-0-7 with pro-diamine or 0-0-7 with pendimethalum, or something like that.
So there's some other uh options out there, but this is the one that we use.
It's it's not that expensive and also does a great job on keeping the crab grass out as well as many other weeds, so you might say jason.
So that is that really all I need to know is that all there is to it just put this out and again oftentimes the commercials on tv to talk about keeping your weeds out.
I'm telling you to put your pre-emergent out and- and it's already too late- you know at least in our air, so you want to get out again before the weeds start germinating another one.
You might see the double o seven with dithiop here now.
Dithypir is the active ingredient in a product we use.
Sometimes called dimension now there may be a generic version that some people use and when, when I use dimension, if I'm going to use that and be honestly, I don't use it much anymore, but that is if you uh spray.
Your let's say: I'm telling you hey, get your pre-immersion out before the crab grass germinates.
Well, let's say that you that you run late one year, okay or if you're in business for yourself and somebody calls you in march and you're thinking- oh boy, I'm afraid the crabgrass may have already germinated.
Now it may be very tiny and you can barely see it, but if you think the crabgrass has already germinated again at that point, the pro-diamond is not going to do you a whole lot of good, so you're going to go with the with the dimension and dimension it will it will help with crabgrass that hasn't germinated, but if it has germinated and it's in a very early stage of its life cycle uh, it can also help to control that as well.
So, in those early early stages of the crab grass and you're late, you're too late for pro-diamine, you might want to go with a product like dimension.
That's the main reason I use it.
Some people want to use mix up the chemistry, so they might use pro diamine one time then and dimension another time, because they don't want to put the same chemistry out uh every single time to keep weeds from building up a resistance.
So you see here that to answer like: what's the best pre-emergent, I mean it takes a little bit of understanding of what is the actual weed that you're trying to target now.
So the other thing I'm using a lot of- and this is for warm season lawn, so the pro dyamine and and the dimension- you can use the warm season- grasses, cool season, grasses and and yeah.
If you just want to use those, it is certainly way better than nothing and certain grass types don't have as big of a crabgrass problem as other again like bermuda grass, like this, I mean just- will get totally covered in crabgrass if you don't treat it properly, but other grass types, saint augustine, centipede and probably some of the cool season, grasses just don't have as much of a crabgrass problem.
I use this product a lot but for a different purpose.
So this is spectacle flow, it's a more expensive product, and so this is what I'm going out with in in september and october, and I'm trying to get uh pola annual as one of the target weeds, but not just pola a lot of the cool season, weeds the hen bit the purple dead, nettle, the hairy bitter crest.
I mean there's so many cool seeds of weeds in their lawns, and this is a product we're using to try to prevent that.
But I'm not only using the end this year, I'm actually going to start using it in may as well, because we're getting big time problems with doveweed and and just chamber better and some other things in the lawn.
So I'm going to go out with six ounces of spectacle flow per acre in may and then, when I go back in the fall september october, I'm going to go six and a half ounces is what I use to try to get the poe and one of the great things about special kind of like the dimension.
If you're running a little bit late and the pole has already germinated- hopefully the spectacle has has a little bit of reach back ability, meaning it can hopefully knock out some baby, pulling we're typically going to mix that with cimazine to help accomplish that and knock out the poe annua again, that's one of the main target weeds, but it's not the only weed we're going after okay.
So you understand you got your warm season weeds that are germinating uh early in the year.
You got your cool season, weeds that are germinating in the fall.
This is going to vary depending on on temperature from year to year.
It's going to obviously vary depending on where you live.
For you know further south, it's going to obviously get warm uh quicker in in early in the year, and it's going to stay warm longer late in the year, so you're going to have to adjust the timing on this better to be early with it than late.
You know, like I said you put your prodigame out late.
It's not going to really give you much benefit.
Spectacle is a great product in the fall for all outstanding results for pola, but you could also use pro-diamond in fault, but it's not going to give you quite the same results as the spectacle wheel.
So you think well, why wouldn't, if spectacle's superior, why wouldn't you use it uh earlier? Well, uh, it's more significantly more expensive and the pro-diamine is an outstanding product trying to prevent crabgrass, which is the main one we're going after in that situation.
Some people put it all out at one time, like I'm saying I'm going out one time, I'm using 0.85 pounds per acre of the prodiamine earlier in the year, using six and a half ounces of the spectacle flow, that's on bermuda and zoysia yards in the fall on the centipede and st.
Obviously, I'm only using four ounces per acre.
Just do it one time some people will split that up.
You'll hear what they call split apps.
So they'll come in with three ounces in spectacle in let's say september and come back with three more ounces in november and they're trying to to to make it last longer and they're trying to.
If some of that poem may germinate over a longer period of time and to be able to get it, you know be able to get it if it's germinating at different times.
For me, I'm not doing the split apps, I'm going all my pro diaming round, one coming back with spectacle again in may trying to get ahead of that doveweed and some of the other summer weeds, kalinga and things like that and then coming back with spectacle again in the fall appreciate you watching everything about getting into weed control and fertilization, business you're, starting a mowing: business go to lawncarelife.com, there's the weed, control and fertilization academy.
There's the weed control cheat sheet, which tells you products to use the rates, the grass types they're safe for things like that, there's programs, pricing, charts, there's a lot of stuff over there lawn care business, master academy, mosquito spraying academy.
I mean I got a lot of stuff, so go check out.
Lawncarelife.Com, appreciate you watching subscribe and I'll keep the information coming for you talk to you later.
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How pre-emergent herbicides work. Pre-emergent herbicides include chemicals like prodiamine or dithiopyr, which work in three ways to stop weeds like clover, crabgrass, thistle, and dandelions from emerging through the soil. Pre-emergent herbicides: Prevent root growth.What is the best pre-emergent for grassy weeds? ›
Quinclorac 75DF is our top recommended grassy weed killer due to its broad label and cost-effectiveness. Quinclorac 75 DF is labeled to treat some of the more common grassy weeds like Crabgrass, Barnyardgrass, Torpedograss and Foxtail.What is the best herbicide to spray on your lawn? ›
The best way to kill the existing lawn and weeds is to apply a nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate, over the entire area. Glyphosate is a postemergence translocated herbicide that effectively kills turf and grassy and broadleaf weeds. Glyphosate is translocated rapidly in all actively growing plants.What is the longest lasting pre-emergent? ›
and broadleaf weeds
l Longest-lasting, for season-long control As the longest-lasting pre-emergence weed control available for use in nurseries, Barricade offers the season-long control you need.
In the professional market, many lawn care professionals prefer liquid herbicides over granular herbicides for post-emergent control of broadleaf weeds. The reason for this is that liquid post-emergent herbicides usually perform better than their granular counterparts.Can you apply too much pre-emergent? ›
Don't over apply. Pre-emergent herbicides work by drying out weed seeds. Too much pre-emergent will stunt root growth and slow spring green-up. And, for the DIYer, only buy what you need per application to limit the amount of product you have left lying around the garage.When should I treat my lawn with pre-emergent? ›
Pre-emergent herbicides are most effective when they are applied before weeds start to germinate. If you are doing general treatment, the best time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide is in the spring, before weed seeds can sprout.What is the safest pre-emergent herbicide? ›
Treflan / Preen (trifluralin) – the safest on ornamental plants but also the weakest for weed control. Controls winter annual weeds including annual bluegrass, chickweed and henbit well. But tends to be less effective on summer weeds.What goes first pre-emergent or grass seed? ›
Seed first, then apply pre-emergent at least 6 weeks later to allow for lawn establishment. Or seed at least 3 months after the pre-emergent has been applied. Principle #2: Pre-emergent must be mixed correctly and applied evenly over the target area for best results.
What natural weed-killers kill weeds down to the roots? Boiling water and flaming will kill the roots of weeds. Vinegar kills roots, but it may take a few days for the roots to die off after the vinegar solution is applied.What herbicide works the fastest? ›
Our top choice for eliminating weeds is Spectracide Weed and Grass Killer Concentrate. It can be used in a variety of areas around your property, such as flower beds, sidewalks, and even around shrubs, delivering visible results in just a few hours.Is there a herbicide that only kills weeds? ›
SedgeHammer® Herbicide — Nutsedge Weed Killer
SedgeHammer® is a safe, selective weed killer that doesn't kill the grass.
The first application for the fall needs to be made sometime between late-August and early-October. A second application should be put on your lawn 6-10 weeks after the first fall application to ensure full control until the lawn emerges from dormancy next spring.How many times a year should you apply pre-emergent? ›
Early spring and fall are the most effective times to apply pre-emergent herbicides. Applying a pre-emergent herbicide will prevent seeds from sprouting, but the most effective times to use it are in the spring and again in the fall.What time of day do you spray pre-emergent? ›
The best time to apply is the when the daytime highs drop to the mid-70s for about three to five days in a row. Since a pre-emergent application will not last through the following summer, make a pre-emergent application late spring or early summer (see Spring Herbicide Application map).Do you fertilize or pre-emergent first? ›
Any time you intend to apply preemergent weedkillers and fertilizers at roughly the same time, apply the fertilizer first. Water it into the soil deeply. Wait a couple of days, then apply the pre-emergent granules and water lightly.Are all pre emergents the same? ›
Pre-emergent herbicide typically comes in two different forms: liquid pre-emergent and granule pre-emergent. While each type is structured to combat sprouting weeds, they each have unique characteristics and application methods.Will heavy rain wash away pre-emergent? ›
While pre-emergents are designed to remain in the soil even after heavy rains, I would caution you not to plan your application immediately before any expected rain.Is 2 4-d pre-emergent herbicide? ›
Opti Amine 2,4-D Amine Herbicide is a post-emergent herbicide for broadleaf weeds that will not provide pre-emergent control for crabgrass or any other weeds.
Answer: Any pre-emergent product can be mixed with Glyphosate and applied together. However keep in mind that Glyphosate will kill everything you spray it on so if you are doing a broadcast spray with it you will kill all the grass you touch not just the weeds.Is 2 4-d pre-emergent or post-emergent? ›
2,4-D Amine Selective Post-Emergent Herbicide is a effective post-emergent weed killer used to eliminate broadleaf weeds and brush within most grassy lawns various crop areas, and successfully controls unwanted aquatic weeds and trees.Why is my pre-emergent not working? ›
So why do they sometimes “not work”? Most weed seeds germinate at a certain soil temperature, about 50F. In the case of an early spring warm-up or delayed application, the weed seeds may have already germinated unseen before the per-emergent application.What happens if you don't water in pre-emergent? ›
When you skip the watering, the pre-emergent is simply resting on top of your lawn, allowing the seeds in the soil to germinate and grow into weeds. In other words, if you don't water in your application, IT WILL NOT WORK.Does mowing crabgrass spread it? ›
If you already have signs of crabgrass growing in your lawn it is important to take care when mowing. Crabgrass stalks contain hundreds of seeds, these can spread every time you mow or rake the lawn making the problem worse.Is it better to overseed or use pre-emergent? ›
Should I add pre-emergent to my newly seeded lawn? In a word, no. Because newly seeded lawns are still germinating, the pre-emergent can affect germination in the process. More mature lawns are sturdier against the herbicide, so it's best to wait at least 4 months after planting the lawn to apply the pre-emergent.How long does pre-emergent last in the yard? ›
How Long Does Pre-Emergent Weed Control Last? Every product is a bit different. Typically, you can expect one treatment to last 3-5 months. However, Canopy recommends applying a split application approximately one month apart to maximize effectiveness.What temperature should I apply pre-emergent? ›
When it comes to pre-emergent weed control timing is everything, especially when using herbicides like LESCO's Dimension to control summer annual weeds. Rule of thumb is to get the application down before the soil temperatures are 50-55 degrees for five or more consecutive days.Do you really need pre-emergent? ›
It is essential to apply the pre-emergent weed control before weed seeds begin to germinate, or produce young plants. Some weeds emerge early, such as dandelions. Others, such as star thistle, germinate in the fall.What herbicide is safer than Roundup? ›
Chemical alternatives to Roundup can also contain toxic ingredients, but safe alternatives to Roundup include soap, vinegar, salt or iron-based sprays, mulching and integrated weed management.
when is it too late for a pre-emergent? The answer is not, and never will be a specific date. Dates are a good general guideline, but a date will not determine the success or failure of a pre-emergent application. Pre-emergent timing is all about soil temperatures.Does pre-emergent keep grass seed from growing? ›
Almost every pre-emergent herbicide, intended to prevent grassy weeds from germinating, also prevents grass seed from germinating. Do not apply pre-emergent herbicide if you have bare spots you plan on seeding into.Should pre-emergent be applied in spring or fall? ›
Pre-emergents should be applied at least twice a year. As previously mentioned, they should be applied in the spring before the ground temperature reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Then it should be applied again in the early fall after temperatures reach 70 degrees and continue dropping.How do I permanently get rid of weeds in my yard? ›
An easy all-natural way to eliminate weeds permanently is to plant shade-tolerant plants from places prone to weed growth. These plants should also have low ground heat levels. For example, if you don't have lots of daffodils in your garden, you should consider planting berries in those regions.Is vinegar as good as Roundup? ›
The acetic acid in even household vinegar was MORE toxic than Roundup! Going one step further, in this case a comparison of rate of application is a moot point. A 1% solution of glyphosate will kill most any annual weed listed on the label, and also the majority of perennial weeds.What herbicide kills mile a minute? ›
Selective herbicides containing triclopyr (Turflon, Garlon, Remedy) or 2,4-D + triclopyr (Crossbow) provide effective control of this weed. A non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate (Roundup), will also control this weed.What is the most used herbicide in the world? ›
Glyphosate, is an herbicide that was introduced by Monsanto under the trade name Roundup in 1974 and in the last decade became the most widely used agricultural pesticide worldwide.What is the worlds best selling herbicide? ›
The website for Roundup weedkiller proudly boasts that it is “the world's best selling herbicide, used in gardens everywhere”. It was brought to market in 1974 as the first glyphosate-based herbicide, and today we use 100 times more of it than we did in the late 1970s.What is the strongest herbicide? ›
Glycosulphate is the strongest weed killer chemical on sale and will kill grass too, but most gardeners won't need a product this strong as more targeted chemicals are nearly as effective.What spray kills weeds forever? ›
Weed Killer for Areas Never to Grow Again
To kill all vegetation in walkways, driveways and other areas where you don't want any living thing to grow again, mix two cups ordinary table salt with one gallon of white vinegar. Do this in a container that is larger than one-gallon capacity so you have room for the salt.
To kill weeds, some amateur gardeners recommend combining salt, soap and vinegar. The gardening pros gave their thoughts on this method. They said: “Together, these household items create a potent mixture to eliminate weeds to ensure they won't come back.Can you put down too much pre-emergent? ›
Don't over apply. Pre-emergent herbicides work by drying out weed seeds. Too much pre-emergent will stunt root growth and slow spring green-up. And, for the DIYer, only buy what you need per application to limit the amount of product you have left lying around the garage.Does pre-emergent work on existing weeds? ›
Keep in mind that pre-emergent weed killer does not kill existing weeds, only the seeds of new weeds, preventing them from sprouting.Do you need to water lawn after pre-emergent? ›
Principle #3: Pre-emergent herbicide must be watered in.
Watering in activates the herbicide, creating a barrier just below the surface. Most products call for 0.5 inches of irrigation or rain within 21 days after application.
Trifluralin is a commercially available herbicide widely used as a preemergent herbicide on soybeans, cotton crops, and some ornamental plants. Trifluralin must be applied prior to the appearance of weed seedling sprouts and once applied, must be incorporated into the soil through irrigation or mechanical means.Is April too late for pre-emergent? ›
Question of the day... when is it too late for a pre-emergent? The answer is not, and never will be a specific date. Dates are a good general guideline, but a date will not determine the success or failure of a pre-emergent application.What temperature should I put down pre-emergent? ›
Pre-emergent is recommended for lawns twice a year. In the late winter, apply when soil temperatures are about 55 degrees for several days in a row. In the fall, wait until soil temperature decreases to about 70 degrees.What happens if it rains too much after pre-emergent? ›
preemergent application and excessive rainfall, the more likely the herbicide is to be bound to the soil, which should reduce its potential to move laterally or downward via water flow.Can you apply pre-emergent twice? ›
Pre-emergents should be applied at least twice a year. As previously mentioned, they should be applied in the spring before the ground temperature reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Then it should be applied again in the early fall after temperatures begin to come down.Can you put down pre-emergent and grass seed at the same time? ›
Overseeding and using pre-emergent products should occur 12-16 weeks apart from one another. Simply put, if you use pre-emergents, wait 12-16 weeks before overseeding. If you have already overseeded, wait 12-16 weeks before using any type of pre-emergent herbicide.